A NORDMARKA CLASSIC

Words by Hans-Petter Hval
Photos by Emil Sollie

If you say the word Marka to any Oslo citizen, they will probably nod appreciatively. This big forest region just outside the city center is something to be proud about. Either you like to spend time outside during summer or winter – in Marka you`ll always find something fun to do. A group of friends and acquaintances decided to spend a night out in January – in the middle of the work week.

Start and end point – the concrete jungle of downtown Oslo with the promise of a ski heaven only a 40 min train ride away. Take one day off work, get tons of epic cross-country skiing in the hidden parts of Nordmarka, cruising on singletracks for hours before a three-course dinner, a sauna with a view, and some inside insights from the Løypebas*. Combine the joy of skiing and nature with the social aspect of run clubs and club rides, to get the concept.

*Track machine drivers – Skiforeningen has several track machine drivers working their late and early hours to make sure the people of Oslo get their ski tracks groomed. No one knows Marka better than they.

People at train station with skis and gear, departures board in background, winter clothing.
Three people cross-country skiing on a snowy landscape with pine trees and a forested hill in the background.

I

The crew met at Oslo S in their sneakers, before gearing up for an epic micro adventure led by O.G. jibber turned markalos* Frankum. The train left at 0904, before being surprised by ski historian Thor Gotaas, who jumped on the train at Kjelsås. A few anecdotes and fairy tales later, the group arrived at Grua. Our guide took the group through a small neighbourhood before standing in front of the gates to the finest.

*Frankum spends a lot of his spare time in Marka, and despite his age he has become a Marka expert.

Two people cross-country skiing in a snowy forest, wearing winter gear and backpacks, surrounded by snow-covered trees.

II

“This is the next year Endurace”. The group got their skis on, some of them from next year’s product line, before heading into the tracks. First stop, the Svesvika cabin of Skiforeningen, spiced up with casual pit-stops and stories about the cabins we pass. Some of them from the second world war, Frankum explains.

Cross-country skiers on a snow-covered trail with a forest and cloudy sky in the background.
Dog standing on snowy ground in front of a snow-covered building at sunset.
A group of people in a sauna, wearing swimwear and holding cans, enjoying a relaxed atmosphere.

III

The pace is picking up, and the conversation is more scattered. The famous paddling brothers Vold set the pace, with the rest following strict. Might have been the promised lunch at Trantjern. The group was greeted by the eminent Eirik Lyssand, known for his outdoor cooking and general funny SOME presence.

Magnus Sandnes from the Skiforeningen gave the group some intel about their plans for the place, stating this might be the last time anyone visits the old cabin, before it`s burned down and replaced by a newer version. Before rounding up the lunch with some buns from the famous Norwegian pastry chef and cookbook author Ida Gran Jansen.

Group of people in winter clothing gathered in snowy area near a wooden building, with ski gear and man in a red apron.

IV

Epic single tracks, epic bails. The guide made a quick left, then a right, and all the sudden a long stretch of fairy tale looking tracks emerged. The stretch is truly something spectacular, ending in a Jerry trap which took down five of the pack of 15. As soon as the sun started to set, the group came closer to Kikut – the end destination of day one.

The last leg, the group was scattered, with Hammern Ski Club being well represented in all parts of the peloton.

A table with a bowl of soup garnished with seeds, a slice of bread, a pot with a ladle, and additional plates and bread. The scene suggests a casual dining setup.
A group of people cross-country skiing on a snowy trail through a forest with tall snow-covered trees, next to a partially frozen stream, under a cloudy sky.

V

A sauna with a view and a well-deserved gastronomical experience awaited the group at the legendary Kikut. The place got new owners a few years back, and Susanne and Einar have been busy ever since. With their ambition to create a menu based on raw ingredients from Kikut's surroundings, and the gastronomical level of a Michelin restaurant, the group was presented with a three-course meal.

During a busy weekend with snow, they estimated approximately 2400 waffles and cinnamon buns being prepared. And that, in the middle of the woods.

A group of people cross-country skiing on a snowy trail surrounded by forested hills and cabins.
Three people cross-country skiing on a snow-covered trail through a forest of tall, snow-laden pine trees during sunset.
Snow-covered signpost in a snowy forest with tall evergreen trees.

VI

After spending the night at Kikut, which offers 65 beds, the group met the løypebaser* of Skiforeningen. After getting some insights in how they facilitate skiing in an impressive 450 km network of tracks spread all over the Marka area, we got the latest news about the fresh tracks awaiting.

The last leg was a speedy trip back to the concrete jungle, before hitting the desks, ready for work.

A group of people cross-country skiing on a snow-covered trail surrounded by pine trees.
Cross-country skier on a snowy trail surrounded by snow-covered trees in a winter landscape.

SHARE

OTHER STORIES